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How to Paint TrimLearning how to paint trim is easy to do once you've mastered a few basic steps. You've done the hard part - trim installation - and you're ready to do what I personally think is the fun part. If you can simply follow some basic instructions (sprinkled in with a dose of patience) in regard to the total prep and painting process, you'll have the professional-looking result you want. But first things first. As far as the tools and materials you will need, they are:
Putty Knife # 220 Grit Sand Paper
Painter's Caulk Tip
The problem (if this is indeed a 'real' problem - sort of how you view it from a personal standpoint) I see, is that ordinary painter's caulk can be affected by moisture rather easily, which can damage the fine work you did on the original wood trim installation. Surface mold is another issue too that can develop and spread quickly on this type of caulk. The problem is not the caulk, but where you put it. In the case of a laundry room, for example, I would apply a latex/silicone mixture that can address these particular issues effectively, especially in a warm, and sometimes damp, environment. A little more expensive per tube ($3.50 for the better caulk versus $1.50 for the ordinary stuff), but I think well worth the expense. Certainly location of the trim (bathroom vs. bedroom) will play a major role in what type of caulk to use. Please see my page referencing everything about caulk for more details. Also, please see my page on painting preparation if you've got a few more questions answered regarding prep work.
Latex Multi-purpose Primer This seals the wood to help protect it, and in turn provides a solid base on which to apply your finish coat. If you were to paint directly onto the bare wood surface, the result would be an absorption of paint, giving it a dull look. Primer also provides excellent adhesion capabilities so the finish paint can "grip" the wood trim really well, and thereby allowing for a professional-looking finish. It should be noted, however, that many home-improvement stores carry pre-primed trim. This is a big time-saving aspect that eliminates any priming on your part. I highly recommend using this type of trim-work if possible. Finish Paint Painting PreparationFill Nail Holes TipWipe down (lightly) with a wet rag the area immediately after applying the caulk with your finger. I've seen it happen so many times, that someone will simply smear the caulk around with their fingers and let it dry, which will then leave unmistakable ridges and swirls looking like you left your 6 year-old daughter in charge of the prep work. When it's painted over, the roughness sticks out like a sore thumb, all the way up and down. Very noticeable!
Caulk All Cracks and Splits This will easily fill in the area, leaving a seamless transition when you begin to paint. Always have clean, wet rag handy to lightly wipe down the trim after caulking. You will ensure a smooth surface, instead a rough caulk application. TipWipe down (lightly) with a wet rag the area immediately after applying the caulk with your finger. I've seen it happen so many times, that someone will simply smear the caulk around with their fingers and let it dry, which will then leave unmistakable ridges and swirls looking like you left your 6 year-old daughter in charge of the prep work. When it's painted over, the roughness sticks out like a sore thumb, all the way up and down. Very noticeable!
Add Tape Apply Primer Apply Finish Coat RememberWhen painting trim, always brush your strokes with the grain of the wood, to maintain the integrity of the finish. If the trim is flat (as in 'manufactured' trim such as Masonite), simply brush on the paint with the lay of the trim. For example, if you are painting the baseboard and shoe mold along the floor (lying horizontally), you should brush with the lay of the trim - horizontally. Same applies for door trim, if it's vertical, for example, brush up and down - not side-to-side. And try not to cross-brush where trim pieces join together perpendicular to each other. Like when a horizontal piece joins a perpendicular piece. Brush with the lay of the piece (or grain). Up and down for vertical, side-to-side for horizontal. Again, this type of result looks very amateurish, especially if using something like a semi-gloss oil. When it dries, you can really see the wild brush-stroke effect of what I'm talking about here. Well, that about does it for the basics on how to paint trim. If you would like more information, please see my painting page for further details. |
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